The only fool proof, and recommended, method of protecting yourself from unknowingly buying a fake watch is to have it checked by Rolex or at the very least by an experienced and trusted expert.

However, please remember that the numbering system that Rolex uses defies logic, as James Dowling, a leading Rolex expert commented,

‘then a completely new system of case numbering was brought in and is as follows:

S serial numbers were introduced in 1993 and W ones first came in during 1994 andT serial numbers were first introduced in May 1996 BUT all these are still current; with this new numbering system numbers are generated almost randomly. The reasons for this were not disclosed to me, despite asking the question. I was met with the telephonic equivalent of an "enigmatic smile". If you think things are now really confused........it gets worse!! The letter U was introduced in August 1997; and will run concurrently with S, T &W. However, things were not yet complex enough for Rolex, so the letter A was introduced in November/December 1998 and will also run concurrently with W & U. Please note that Rolex are now using the prefixes U A and P randomly assigning numbers; therefore the exact date of production can only be ascertained by access to the records kept at Rolex, Geneva.‘

"Copyright 1996/2001 James M. Dowling & Jeffrey P. Hess, from The Best of Times Rolex Wristwatches, published by Schiffer Publishing Limited".

Having said this there are some fundamental points that you can look out which may help when examining a watch

1 The majority of Rolex Oyster watches are allocated a model number and individual serial number. If you take the bracelet or strap of the watch and look closely between the lugs of the case at the 12 o’clock position you will find a stamped model number. It is important that this model number corresponds to the actual watch you are looking at.

For example the following are the model numbers for certain current production watches

This is by no means a full list and further information on model numbers can be gained from Rolex catalogues or from other publications available via the WWW.

Between the lugs at 6 o’clock you should find another number and this number is individual to to the watch itself. This number will represent the approximate year of manufacture and thus you be able to age the watch. You can also ring your local Rolex service centre and confirm, by giving the serial number, that it is not lost or stolen

CASE AND BRACELET MATERIAL

Stainless Steel
Stainless Steel
Stainless Steel & Gold
Stainless Steel
Stainless Steel
Stainless Steel & Platinum
Stainless Steel
Stainless Steel

MODEL NAME

Sea-Dweller
Submariner
Submariner
Explorer II
GMT-Master II
Yacht-Master (full size)
Explorer I
Daytona Cosmograph

MODEL #

16600
16610
16613
16570
16750
16622
114270
116520

VERY APPROXIMATE DATE OF MANUFACTURE

From August 2001
From April 2000
1998 - 1999
1997 - 1998
1996 - 1998
1995 - 1998
1993
1992
1991
1991
1990/1
1989
1987/8
1986/7

SERIAL NUMBER

K xxx,xxx
P xxx,xxx
A xxx,xxx
U xxx,xxx
T xxx,xxx
W xxx,xxx
S xxx,xxx
C xxx,xxx
N xxx,xxx
X xxx,xxx
E xxx,xxx
L xxx,xxx
R xxx,xxx
9 xxx,xxx